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Tilikum: Luxton's Pacific
Crossing
Foreword to the Second
Edition
By Harvey Locke Cambridge,
Massachusetts
February,
2002
My initial contact with this great
Canadian adventure story was inauspicious. I was twelve years
old when the first edition of this book came out, and I
remember it well. I had been dragged from our home in Calgary
to Aunt Eleanor’s book launch. It was a small gathering in the
lower level of the Archives of the Canadian Rockies facing the
Bow River, in Banff. I wasn’t very interested. Aunt Eleanor
was a bit like Miss Havisham to me. A formal, dark-haired
woman, damaged but not
broken by multiple sclerosis, she smoked cigarettes
from a long black cigarette holder, behind whose smoke
was a piercing gaze. She did not suffer clumsy little boys
gladly.
I survived the book launch, but found
it formal and boring. What was the big deal about a canoe trip
on the Pacific? My mother told me to read the book. She said
it was a story to match Kon Tiki, Thor Heyerdahl’s well-known
tale of a papyrus raft sailing
trip. Of course I didn’t read it.
A book about Aunt Eleanor’s father, a distant relative
who published a small newspaper in Banff, just didn’t capture my
imagination.
Thirty years later, living in
Cambridge, Massachusetts, I found myself looking for a book to
take on a canoe trip down the Thelon River in the wilderness
of the Northwest Territories and Nunavut. My eyes strayed to
Luxton’s Pacific Crossing. My interest in family had grown
considerably since Aunt Eleanor’s book launch, as had my
understanding of the remarkable Luxtons. So, in the wilds of
the Canadian Arctic, I began to read Norman Luxton’s account
of his canoe voyage with a man named Voss. I couldn’t put it
down. But I still wondered: was it as significant
an event in a global context—this crossing
of the Pacific by dugout canoe—as the foreword by
George Stanley and introduction by Eleanor Luxton made it out to
be?
Sitting
around the campfire one night, I happened to mention
the Tilikum. John Jennings, one of my companions on the trip,
exploded:
“The Tilikum is one of the most famous
canoes in the world! Its voyage is clearly the longest
canoe voyage in history!” (He pointed out that the Tilikum was
sailed not paddled.) Jennings ought to know. He is the vice
chair of the Canadian Canoe Museum in Peterborough, Ontario,
and editor of The Canoe in Canadian Cultures. Another
companion, Peter Allen, knew of its significance, too. A
passionate sailor from Toronto, he knew all about the
Tilikum’s famous captain, John Claus Voss, who along with
Joshua Slocum was one
of the legendary mariners of the late
nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. But neither man knew
much about Norman Luxton—the mate of the Tilikum—or knew this book
existed.
Norman Luxton was the son of the
publisher of the Winnipeg Free Press. Born in 1876, he was
among the first western Canadians to come from a leisure class
who had the time to learn to write well. He also had the
financial ability and class inclination to be an
adventurer for the sake of the exploration rather than an
explorer for commercial purposes. He was a literate young
man in an era
of great romantic adventurers like Stanley and
Livingston in Africa and Theodore Roosevelt in the tropics
and the American west. Norman Luxton caught the bug of his
times.
He voyaged on the great inland sea of
Lake Winnipeg in a York boat (a twelve-metre open watercraft
used in the fur trade). He canoed from British Columbia to
Lake
Ontario. He moved from the metropolis of
Winnipeg to the frontier town of Calgary, where he
worked as a young journalist at the Calgary Herald for eight
years.
But Calgary couldn’t hold Norman. He
moved on to Vancouver and worked as a journalist there—and it
was in a bar in that seaport town that he met Captain John
Claus Voss, an accomplished seaman, who bragged that he
was a greater sailor than Joshua Slocum. Slocum had achieved
great fame by sailing around the world in a tiny yawl, the
Spray. Voss claimed that he could best Slocum by sailing
around the world in an even smaller vessel. On a spring night
in 1901, Luxton dared Voss to prove his bravado, laying $5,000
and his life on it. He said he’d give Voss half
that amount if he took Luxton along
and they crossed all three oceans. Luxton would also
write about the voyage and give half of the proceeds to
Voss.
With Luxton’s money, Voss bought a
cedar dugout canoe from a Salish Indian, outfitted it, and the
two set off. Ten thousand kilometres and six months later,
Luxton was a broken man in a Suva, Fiji,
sick bed. He and Voss had crossed
the Pacific Ocean together in a dugout canoe, but
had nearly killed each other out of mutual hatred along the
way.
But I won’t spoil the story—a story
almost never told from Luxton’s point of view. Voss, whose
continuing voyage became very famous, published his account in
The Venturesome Voyages of Captain Voss many years later. This
infuriated Luxton, and in
1926, he wrote his own version and
gave it to his daughter, Eleanor. Seventy years after
the fateful voyage, she published it under the title Luxton’s Pacific
Crossing.
Without Eleanor Luxton, this great
adventure story would be lost to Canadians. She was a
remarkable person. She became a professional engineer in
194Os—at a time when that sort of thing just wasn’t done by
women—and got a job designing locomotives for the Canadian
Pacific Railway. It’s hard to know what she could have
accomplished had she lived without the burden of multiple
sclerosis. But even this disease did not defeat her. She
fought it for almost fifty years, wrote Banff Canada’s
First National Park,
saw to the publishing of Luxton’s Pacific
Crossing, and made provisions for the upkeep of the Tilikum in
Victoria. It is now permanently displayed on the main
floor of the Royal Canadian Maritime Museum of British
Columbia, which also republished The Venturesome Voyages
of Captain Voss
in
1976.
Eleanor also left a sizeable estate to
create the Eleanor Luxton Historical Foundation. The
Foundation preserves the Luxton residences on Beaver
Street in Banff for public tours and makes grants to support
work on western Canadian history connected to the Banff area.
Through the Archives of the Canadian Rockies (operated by The
Peter and Catherine Whyte Foundation), the Luxton Foundation
has also made Norman Luxton’s papers available to researchers.
Together with
Anna Porter of Key Porter Books, the
Luxton Foundation has made possible the re-publication of this
epic story of one of the great canoe adventures of all
time. |


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